The name ‘Morham’ is Anglian in origin, meaning village or homestead (ham) on or by the mor (more). In medieval times Morham was relatively important – a taxation document of 1166 values Morham at 20 merks, twice the value of Garvald or Stenton.

In the 12th century, the lands were granted to the Malherbe family from upper Normandy, who then took the name ‘de Morham’. Sir Thomas de Morham and his son Sir Herbert were military leaders in the Wars of Independence, and Thomas Morham’s seal is attached to the Declaration of Arbroath of 1320.

Morham’s history is extensively documented in the Fourth Statistical Account of East Lothian and The History of Morham (the Birthplace of John Knox), by David Louden (1889) can be viewed online.

Places of interest

1. Old Mainshill

Near to the current steading conversion, an 1807 plan shows two buildings labelled ‘Old Mainshill’ that had then disappeared by the time of the 1854 OS map.

2. Morham Mill

A document of 1585 listing the lands and barony of Morham includes two mill buildings, which had likely stood since medieval times. In Roy’s Map of 1747-55 they appeared as ‘Morum Mill’, but by 1794 it had fallen into decay. The river has since changed its route and now follows the line of the former lade, still visible as a channel cut into the rock.

3. Mill Bridge

The current bridge was built in 1796, replacing a ford. It’s likely that the mill buildings were removed at the same time.

4. Medieval Village

The site of a medieval village was marked on an OS map of 1854, although no sign of it remained even then. In 2019 locals worked alongside East Lothian Council and Whiteadder AOC searching for evidence of medieval Morham and a possible castle site. Find out more about the project here (https://whiteadder.aocarchaeology.com/2019/09/11/morham-castle-lost-castle-found/).

5. Morham Castle

The 2019 dig uncovered a substantial stone-built wall foundation as well as several sherds of medieval and post-medieval ceramics and a medieval coin. Radiocarbon testing of the wall revealed an earliest construction date of 1285-1400. A series of linear features also containing ceramics likely represents the dismantled and highly truncated remains of Morham Castle.

6. Morham Burn – The School

Established in 1736 by Sir James Dalrymple of Hailes, by 1845 Morham school recorded an average of 70 scholars, including some from outside the parish. By 1868 a new school had been built in the village. Between 1905 and 1912, Morham Vale (now Morham Burn) was used as a home for orphan girls who took in laundry from some of the large houses nearby, including Lennoxlove and Coulston. From 1913 to 1939 it was a Church of Scotland home for boys.

7. Prehistoric Enclosed Settlements

These two enclosures, dating from the later prehistoric period, are on a rise in the field beyond Morham Burn, and are visible in aerial photographs as cropmarks. The settlements are protected as a Scheduled Monument.

8. Morham Church and Anglian Cross

By the 7th century Christianity had been introduced to the area by the Angles, East Lothian being a part of the Anglian kingdom of Northumbria. St Baldred, the 8th century saint, is said to have preached at Morham, while an Early Christian long cist, along with glass beads, were uncovered to the east of the present church during 20th century grave digging.

A church is mentioned in a taxation document from 1166, and the building was consecrated in March 1245 by David de Bentham, Bishop of St Andrew’s. The present church was built in 1724, and incorporated an Anglian carved cross into the south wall. Now in the National Museum of Scotland, the stone is part of the cross shaft, and is decorated with intricate carvings dating it to the 9th century.

The 1724 building incorporated the bellcote from the earlier church. The bell, cast in Holland, dates from 1681 and bears the inscription ’Sir James Stansfield Donut Eius’. Stansfield lived at Newmilns, to the east of Haddington (which later became Amisfield House), and is buried to the west of the church.

The north wing dates to around 1730, incorporating a burial aisle and laird’s loft above. This originally had an arched opening, giving the laird and his family the best view of the pulpit but still with some privacy and comfort, with a fireplace and private entrance up the external stair. The north aisle bears the coat of arms of the Seton family, significant 17th century Morham landowners. In the 18th century the Dalrymple family were the major landowners in the parish; the burial aisle is known as the Dalrymple Aisle and was used by them until the 1830s.

Improvements to the church were undertaken in 1871 and again in 1934. In 2024, the church was transferred to private ownership.

9. The Original Manse

Being close to the river to the south of the church, the original manse was often flooded, so a new manse was built on higher ground in 1826. The north gable of the original manse was incorporated into the churchyard wall. On the wall’s south side can be seen a number of recesses for bee skeps, small hives made of basketwork.

10. Crossgatehall

Until around 1870, a settlement of cottages, a smithy and pub stood by the crossroads.

11. Tile Works

Rentonhall was once home to a brick and pantile works, with the kiln ruins and former clay pits still visible in the woods.

12. Ancient Right Of Way

A public right of way once ran from Morham Loanhead to Haddington, passing through Northrig and West Bearford. The red and white freestone from Garvald quarries was pushed along this route on hand-barrows to build the old Collegiate Church of Haddington.

13. The ‘Clarty’ Road

Now at best no more than a rough path, this was once the main route between Morham and Gifford.

14. Beech Hill

In October 1944 a Mosquito on a training flight out of RAF East Fortune crashed into the west wing of Beech House, killing the crew and four civilians and making it the deadliest wartime air crash for East Lothian residents. With the house destroyed, the current replacement was completed in 1953.

15. Morham Village Hall

Built in 1929, the hall has hosted a range of groups and events throughout the decades, from dances, whist drives, concerts and councillor surgeries, to fitness classes, Dungeons & Dragons gatherings, election voting, pipe drum rehearsals and Burns Nights, making it the social heart of the parish.

Archaeology project

In 2019, villagers were involved in a project with East Lothian Council and Whiteadder AOC to find evidence of medieval Morham and unearth remains at a possible Castle site. Find out more about this project here.

 

 

 

 

 

The short film below was made as part of the East Lothian Heritage Festival 2020.

Thanks to Kate Bogie for providing the illustrations for this page.